December & compost corner

Some of you may remember the young Lenny Henry doing his David Bellamy impersonation in the kid's programme 'Tiswas', complete with beard in a sketch called 'Compost Corner'. 

To this day I have never been able to get that image out of my mind. When I wrote about compost heaps in a horticultural exam all I could see was a false-bearded, mealy-mouthed Henry saying; "weally, weally lovewelly sweet smellie compothst wif wormths and full off goodneth".

There you have it......

Smells, worms, goodness.

Smells; your compost needs to be slightly damp, well aerated and not too compacted so the decomposing micro-organisms can do their work. You will get a slightly sweet odour off a good one rather than the unpleasant, stale one from a soaking, compressed heap. I put an old carpet on my heaps but better gardeners than me leave them only slightly covered but loosely filled.

Worms; these are a sign of a healthy heap! The worms ingest and process the decaying organic matter and soil and so enrich the levels of nutrients and humus. They naturally aerate the heap and will do the same to the soil when you use the compost in the garden.

Goodness; if you want to accelerate the process you can add lime and nitrogen by buying purpose-made products. However, as I work mostly on chalky soil I add a 75mm layer of chalky soil every 200mm. This introduces worms, microbes and nitrogen from the soil, and reduces the pH level ( it makes it more alkaline). 

Try to get all the leaves off your lawn and patio and into the compost before they start to ruin the lawn and making the paving slippery. I have several compost heaps on the go, rotating them. A section filled now can be used not this coming spring but in the next autumn or the following spring.

You should end up with a dark, humus rich, crumbly material which is easy to dig out and easy to spread.

Avoid using cooked materials and meat unless you want to attract four-legged furry things. A great way to get rid of these materials is a brilliant newcomer - a "Green Cone Food Waste Digester". It looks like an ordinary composter but is set a few feet into the ground and has a rat-proof mesh at the base. The cheese, meat and unspeakable debris is broken down naturally and disappears into the ground. Strangely, it doesn't smell too bad either.


In summary;

• Finish getting the fruit trees and bushes planted; prune your free-standing ones. ( Leave your vines until mid-December otherwise they will 'weep').
• Likewise finish cutting back messy herbaceous plants unless you want to leave a layer of foliage for frost-protection for the more tender species
• The soil is still warm enough to lay turf but avoid doing this in the frost
• Enjoy a bonfire where you can to get rid of rubbish and diseased green debris.
• Start thinking about which foliage and berries you can use for Christmas decorations - Holly, Yew, Ivy, Pittisporum, Dogwoods, Conifers, Pine cones and even Crab apples are good. Be bold!

Wishing you a very, very Happy Compost Corner!

November; Planting and Poo !

Well I didn't expect the frost this morning!

I guess we have all been lulled into a dreamy Indian summer feel. Now is the time to think about protecting those tender plants and taking those fragile pots inside.

Last week I planted ( well - my teams and I did!) some 650 plants and 9 trees. Already I am thinking about adding some more protective compost onto the semi-tender Agapanthus and Pennisetums (Phygelius are just as vulnerable).

During the planting I became more and more like a stuck record....."Only a teaspoon of Blood, Fish & Bone for the herbaceous plants, a tablespoon for the shrubs and a handful for the trees please!". The trouble is - if you put too much fertiliser in then you can end up burning the roots of the plants.

So - always stir the fertiliser into the compost with a twirl of the hand and make sure the base of your planting hole is flat when you plant up. Nothing will kill your plant quicker than an air gap under the roots. Try to avoid bashing anything - potted plants have just come out the nursery and it is proven that if you throw around trees, potted plants and anything bare-rooted, their growth will be impeded. 

In the Autumn I like to use an organic slow-release fertiliser such as B, F & Bone or Bonemeal so there are still plenty of nutrients being released in Spring. Although close to it's organic origin with the benefits of a range of nutrients, these fertilisers have been through chemical processes. 

Growmore is one further step away again from the natural world and only has the major nutrients of Nitrogen, Phosphorous & Potassium ( = NPK ). The more expensive water-soluble and fancy feeds off the shelf are great in the growing season but somewhat wasted at this time of year.

For the real thing - go for Poo - well-rotted horse is best though chicken is ok. There is nothing like it as it has the minor (or 'Trace') nutrients such as Iron, Magnesium and Boron as well as major nutrients that plants need. It also has the additional benefit of improving the structure of the soil ( ie. the thing that stops the soil being too compacted or loose and therefore better able to hold onto it's moisture and nutrients).

Organic materials need to be well dug in or, again, it will burn the roots. I usually dig a 'pit' 150mm under the roots of trees or hedges then back-fill it with soil and manure.

Sea-weed is excellent and has a very high Nitrogen (N) content, and that's the nutrient that makes the green parts of a plant grow well. Phospate (P) encourages root and the energy processing growth and Potassium (K) - the fruit and flowers.

I have to say I shy away from treated sewage on the garden. Each to their own however; feel free to introduce something into your neighborhood that will win friends and influence people!

In summary;

• Get those fruit trees and bushes in.
• Finish planting your tulip bulbs ( at approx 3 x depth of the bulb itself)
• Put grease bands on your fruit trees as pest protection
• Get the most well-rotted manure on to the veg patch
• Still time to scarify your lawn but doing over-do it in wet weather if you are on heavy soil - you will begin to wreck the structure of your soil ( see above).
• If not done already, cut your roses back by a third to stop them getting too wild and woolly in the winter months.

And please................just try to find time to have a beer or a cuppa in your outdoor space and look at the colours that are now emerging. You will see nothing like it in any gallery that I know about.

October

I have just got an allotment.

The head of allotments offered it to me, pausing as he frowned:"Looking at it I suppose we should let you have it for nothing for the first year" he sighed ruefully.

Surrounded by beautifully tended plots with nets, virgin soil, vegetables obediently flourishing in lines and all with artfully crafted home-made sheds, my plot is a disgrace.

I also noticed that all the surrounding allotment holders were stout men with hands that look made for pulling things, chopping things and in the case of rabbits, strangling things.

But I am learning.

Here in the allotment and in the garden October can be one of the most satisfying months. With the rain coming the soil is beginning to soften up and is still warm enough for planting, dividing and, in the true spirit of allotments - sharing. I have only been here a few weeks and I have already planted strawberries from Seamus and raspberry canes from Fran.

You see - whilst the world tramples on each other, us enlightened allotment holders are creating a New World Order based on a generous exchanges of goods and an admiration of compost heaps. And forget the internet. If you want to know anything about vegetables ask a man with ill-fitting trousers, red cheeks, side-burns and a wheelbarrow.

For instance - cardboard is the best way of keeping weeds at bay as old carpet gets tangled and expensive geo-textile weed-suppressants get choked ( from Reg ). And if you are going to move your fruit canes then double-dig in the old runner and broad beans first ( Kev ). And mind how old your horse manure is or it will bring in all the weeds ( Cyril ). And get your garlic and onions planted and your run beans sown under glass ( Pete). While you are at it - prune your summer-fruiting canes by cutting back to ground level and cut back all canes if they are Autumn fruiting.

If you are not quite sure then come to Hampshire and ask Reg. He will have plenty to say.


It's a whole new world and one that spurs me on when I look up at the remaining 4.9 rods of my 5 rod plot that I have to dig. ( A Rod is a five and a half yards length measure of land from the Good Old Days when the King's shilling ruled and farm deaths were frequent). It's getting away from my laptop, getting away from my In-tray and getting a sore back, filthy trousers and the most enormous satisfaction from making a tiny dent in my jungle to get the first plants in the ground.

And if ever I think of my sore back or anything else sore in my life for that matter I will remind myself of Seamus. Well into his 70's, he fell over on his plot and lay there for several hours with his life hanging in the balance. After a change of medication he is now back digging 3 hours at a time - with a large grin on his face.

I don't think we know how lucky we are.

Further top-tips on jobs for October;

• You can start thinking about planting your fruit trees now too.
• Get rid of any messy annuals and think about replacing them with something imaginative. Varieties of Hellebores, Heucheras, Bergenias, Violas and Pansies will all give you something to admire in the Winter months.
• Lift your bulbs such as Gladiolii, Dahlias and Canna for over-wintering so they don't get frosted or water-logged.
• Plant your daffodils now but leave your Tulips until November.
• Keep adding mulch to your borders, raiding the base of your compost bin for the well-rotted stuff.

More on the wonderful world of compost heaps at a later date...............

September comes

You can feel the weather just beginning to turn - especially if you have had a night out camping in a summer sleeping bag.

Rushing out to chop all your garden down and hard pruning however is not quite the answer!

Perennials; As in previous years we can often be in for an Indian ( late ) summer. So my advice would be;

• Dead- head your annuals unless they begin to look really sorry for themselves - in which case compost them and their soil. Feeding them will prolong their life and vigour.
• Cut back the straggly perennials being aware that some will go on to produce attractive seed-heads that make impressive viewing through autumn even into winter. Honesty ( Lunaria - because the seed heads are moon-like), Scotch thistles, Poppies, Teasels and many grasses can all be striking viewing in a frost on a sunny morning.
• If the foliage is not diseased then think about laying it around the base of the more tender herbaceous plants from hot climates such as Agapanthus.
• If you have planned to make changes and improvements to your borders then start lifting and dividing your hardy perennials.

Bulbs; Now is the time to order or buy our bulbs but probably wait till the end of the month to plant them when the soil is a bit cooler.

Lawns benefit from weeding and feeding now. For the moss conscious, it is time to get on with the scarifying. Be realistic however - it is very hard to get the perfect lawn with perfect grass without an awful lot of hard work. With the weather as it is you can go ahead with repairs or laying/seeding lawns ( always use more seed than recommended on the package as the supplier usually assumes the soil will be near perfect as will the after-care!). 

Grand designs and Grand days out

Monthly top-tips

Grand designs and Grand days out

I recently persuaded a Godchild to visit an historic garden before going on to a McDonald's Drive-Thru for an artery-hardening Big Mac. I was amazed how much he enjoyed it and would recommend Tintinhull Garden ( just off the A303 near Yeovil). 

It is easy to think that these beautiful and grand gardens have little to teach us 21st Century folk. They do however often contain colour combinations that can be inspiring pointers for our own backyards.

The past 150 years have seen a dramatic change in use of colour in planting. This is largely down to a rather frumpy-looking Victorian spinster called Gertrude Jekyll (pronounced Jee-kell) who quietly went about a revolution that was to have far-reaching effects. Working with the architect Lutyens she created masterpieces such as Hestercombe, Upton Grey and Munstead Wood where formal and informal were blended and more natural hues replaced the garish, regimented rows of annuals so popular in her time.

She looked to the natural hedgerows for inspiration and often used cooler colours in great drifts that gave way to hotter colours then cooler again. Interspersing borders with evergreen 'strucure' plants she wasn't afraid to use hot colours but knew how to handle them - unlike Trish & Trinny from Abfab!

So ...........when you go to the garden centre clutching your 'significant birthday' tokens, ask yourself;

• What is the overall effect I am trying to achieve? ( Natural? Dramatic? Low-key?)
• How well will the colours work together? 
• Can I put it some evergreen 'structure' plants? ( Green is the great harmonizer)
• Can I create groups of plants that will come out together at the same time of year? Even better, can I get plants to come 'through them' when they are over?
• Can I put in the occasional dramatic tall plant or occasional splash of colour amongst the pastels?

And don't worry - you will never get it exactly right - she didn't either! Call it 'naturalist' if anyone asks.

At least you will do better than the colours we found when going on to the Drive-Thru McDonald's....!

July - keeping it all on track

July - keeping it all on-track.

You may have had enough of watching the national sides slide out of competitions........I certainly have !

So - turning to more predictable sources of inspiration, July is a month for keeping everything that has shot in to life as happy as possible.

Watering; Apart from simply getting enough moisture to new and existing plants you may well have plants that have not flowered or shown any vitality for years. A client asked me over recently to look at his rather sad looking Wisterias; a simple watering with a soluble plant-feed was enough to prompt the Wisterias into new life .......and bring a smile to the owner.

Soluble fertiliser acts so much faster than other forms as it goes directly into the plants "system" with the plant having to do less work to make it usable. It is a bit like an intravenous drip.

Try this with plants that have not done much for years and if you add mulch around the base this will help keep the moisture in and the weeds out. Weeds will not only take moisture but will use up valuable nutrients too. (By the way - if you make a habit of putting down slow-release fertiliser at the base of every plant every spring your efforts will be well rewarded. Even better if you can add a mulch such as well-rotted manure).

Lawns; can start to look very brown over the next few months but when you water them or any plants, try to avoid doing so in direct sunlight. Leaves and lawns can end up looking "burnt" as the water drops act as a magnifying glass to the sunlight. Apart from this, the soil and plants retain the moisture better in the cooler hours. And remember the tips about setting the mower at the right height......! (See the June blog)

Dead-heading; There is no great science to dead-heading your roses. Doing so will encourage a second flush later in the season as the energy of the plant is going into producing new flowers rather than swelling rose-hips. The trick is to dead-head the rose back to a strong nodal point - in other words - where several leaves are shooting from. This will ensure good growth.

Climbers; Vines, Roses and all other climbers can go a bit wild and crazy in this weather. Cutting off excessive lateral (side) growth will, again, re-direct the energy of the plant into producing better fruit or flowers rather than more foliage. More on that at a later blog...........

If the TV sport has become unbearable (.... or those watching it have!) then step outside and take a deep breath. It is quite amazing how, even in a suburban situation just how much fragrance there is in the air at the moment.

Honeysuckle, Mock Orange, Jasmine, Roses................who cares about the sport?!

June - bulbs, bedding & baldness !

Well I hope the excitement of seeing sunshine, Chelsea flower show and the explosion of green in the garden has fired up the enthusiasm once more. I have to say - I find the incredible spurts of growth at this time of year something of a miracle and something that never ceases to amaze me.

Here are some more seasonal thoughts on caring for your garden..........

Bulbs

I am often asked when to cut back the straggly, yellowing leaves of Daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs. A rule of thumb is to mow them at a very high setting ( or strim ) in June. This allows the bulb to be 'fed' by the green shoots for a few months before you cut down the source of the photosynthesis and therefore the energy.

If they are in long grass then there is something to be said for leaving them until the autumn meadow cut.

Bedding

I used to know a canny old nurseryman who was delighted when the crowds came along to his garden centre to buy bedding plants in April & May. He knew they would probably be back for another batch if there was any frost in those months....and there usually is!

That was over 25 years ago and it is fair to say that the climate has changed. This year the weather has been mild compared to the temperatures last year. We have been very wet but the soil temperature has not been so plants have been growing much earlier.

So given on what sort of winter we would have had, if you can resist planting out your annuals until June then do so........ Truth is however that I planted mine out 2 weeks ago!

Lawns

I was once taken aside by a dear retired couple who separately whispered in my ear " He is cutting the lawn too low isn't he? Could you tell him" and "She keeps on telling me to set the mower on a higher cut. Could you tell her?"

In fact most men (sorry - it's true ) want to cut the lawn too low! The trouble with this is that you are not doing your grass any favours. I am sure there is no metaphysical connection with men's baldness.

As with the bulbs, the grass needs to photosynthesize in order to generate energy in order to survive. In dry spells the lawns need to have something to keep them going and if you cut too hard it will suffer.

Generally a 'utility' lawn will keep it's colour, be able to take wear and tear cope with adverse weather conditions if you keep it at a height of 25-30mm in the summer. If the lawn is a high grade luxury lawn you can go down to 12mm in rhe summer but beware - you will start sapping it of strength if it is full of coarse grasses that are used to growing taller.

I got into a lot of hot water by telling the quite formidable man of the house that his wife had it right - and he had got it wrong!

May - pruning special !

Pruning

In the past month I have a lot of questions about pruning - so here is a simplified summary for the nervous beginner and the not-so-sure keen gardener.

Why?
We prune to keep the plant healthy, to give it a good shape and to produce good flowers and fruits. Plants that get too dense will not allow enough air and light to filter through and so will become less productive. Plants that get too straggly will begin to look unsightly and become less vigorous.

Sometimes you need to be cruel to be kind.

What ?
A good rule is to follow the three D's.

Aim to cut branches and stems that are

• Dead
• Diseased
• Damaged

By doing this we reduce the chance of pests and diseases taking hold and from "die-back" happening. (Sounds nasty doesn't it but it is just when stems start dying back to the main stems or a major node). Cut to just above a bud or stem.

When?

There are different seasons for different plants but these are helpful rules-of-thumb;

Trees; prune in winter when they are dormant and least likely to be receptive to disease. 

Cut back to the main stem or trunk but avoid tearing the bark down the tree and avoid cutting too close the main stem or trunk. Do this by doing a main cut first further up the branch then a more controlled one without the whole weight of the branch bearing down.

Shrubs;  The biggest tip is; always prune after flowering and prune hard ( almost to the ground ) if it has stiff, straight, woody stems. 

1. Woody deciduous plants; those that have a woody exterior and often a foam-like looking centre with a small central hole such as Buddleja and Spirea. 

     These are to be pruned after they have flowered either 100-150mm above ground level (or in Forsythia's case, back to the main trunk) to allow a full year's growth that will flower the following year.

These are easily confused with those shrubs that need a second years growth before they flower on those stems. These just need THINNING - cutting back only the stems that have flowered that year just after these stems have flowered ( e.g. Philadelphus, Ribes).

If you are confused DON'T WORRY! Stay calm and carry and look it up on in a book. It's hard to kill these guys.

Basically if you cut both the above back hard because they have become disorderly you will get vigorous growth the next year; if it flowers the following year it is the former category. If it needs another year - it is the latter. You will certainly get all the benefit of the winter coloured stems on the Cornus if you do this.

If the plant doesn't come back at all..............well, sorry,...........it was time for the great compost heap in the sky anyway.

    2.  Woody evergreen shrubs; those that have woody stems but are evergreen such as many Viburnums, Laurels, Bay and Mahonia, Lilac.

Prune these to the shape you want them but just after they have flowered; that way you will get the benefit of the flowers that year and probably the next one too. Be careful not to cut back too much or you may expose the leafless stems and branches. Larger leaved plants ( such as Laurel) are best pruned with secateurs to avoid cutting the leaves in half which then die back.

    3.  Soft stemmed evergreen shrubs such as Fatsia, Choisya, Daphne and Pieris.

Prune to shape the shrub.Care is needed in this category as these plants are often more sensitive to frosts. Their fleshy stems are more prone to pick up pests and diseases so in many ways if you can avoid pruning them - please do! Certainly Daphne is a tender lady who needs care and protection. Avoid pruning all of these when frost is around so late spring is safest. 

Roses......I will cover another time! Hedges...........as above! Herbaceous plants.......you've guessed it.

As a final thought I leave you with the true story of the two beds of roses owned by the RHS. One was carefully cut to the letter of the law. The other was flail-mown by a tractor.

I will give you one guess as to which bed flowered best............................!

Early Spring

Spring has well and truly sprung - so I have been trying to get round to writing this blog for 4 weeks - without much luck! So here goes....

Now is the time when most people FEEL like getting stuck into the garden - so don't hold back.....

Soil; (my hobby-horse). Where borders are likely to attract a lot of annual weeds add plenty of mulch. It will help retain the moisture, keep the annual weeds at bay and provide some nutrients if it is well-rotted. The soil will benefit from the micro organisms and the worms you are adding.

Feeding; Add fertiliser to the borders around the base of the plants. Try to avoid adding too much as this can burn the roots and shoots. Water the fertiliser in if you are in doubt. ( My rule of thumb is a level teaspoon for herbaceous and small plants and a level tablespoon for shrubs).

Pruning; Once the brilliant yellow Forsythia and and other early flowering shrubs are over you can cut the flowing branches back - as hard as you like. NOTE; when a shrub has a small hollow centre as the Forsythia and most Spireas have - you can be pretty brutal with them. The same applies to Buddlea with it's hollow centre - don't be afraid to cut it right down if you need to. If it is a healthy plant it will come back.

Silver-leafed plants can be pruned once the heavy frosts are over as can other sensitive plants such as Laveterias.

Lawns; Be careful not to make the first cut of the season too hard. If you have your mower on a high setting then a lower one for the next cut you will avoid the light green 'balding' when the mower gets to the stems of the grass.

Perennials, grasses and bulbs; Lift and divide herbaceous plants and grasses. Be Bold! They are remarkably resilient! The Snowdrops and aconites need to be lifted whilst they are still in flower.

Fruit & Veg; Whilst the air temperature may be warming up, the soil takes longer. Try to resist the temptation to rush out and do all the sowing at the first sight of sunshine. Waiting for the soil to warm up will pay dividends.

Ponds and pools; If you can bear sticking your arm into the cold,, murky water of your pond then getting at the pond plants to divide them and replant them in appropriate places will mean a less choked pond in the summer.

And in all the excitement...................don't forget to just stand and stare...................and listen................and breathe....................and smell.

To coin the immortal words of Monty Python's verbose American commentator............"Isn't Nature Wonderful" !

Wet, Wet, Wet!

February.......

Oh boy ! Is this rain going to end?! There are parts of the gardens that I look after and are working on that look like they have already joined the WW1 commemoration events......

NEVER work on or with area that are water-logged if you can possibly help it.....it squeezes the life out of the soil by compressing it. This means that all the natural organic processes that are going on ( air meeting rotting vegetation/worms & microcosms feeding off organic material) are starved of what they need. Apart from anything else - it is bloomin' hard to stand upright on it and to clean it off your shoes!

A favourite solution is to put down planks to cross over these areas and where the lawns have been compressed, to stand on these planks to fork holes into the grass. This will begin to 'aerate' the soil.

You will help your lawn by raking up leaves that are stopping the light and air getting to the grass.

Most trees and shrubs are well and truly dormant at this time of year. So now is the time to do that tree pruning - cutting off diseased or damaged branches ( there will be a few of those after these high winds ). When you cut off a branch try not to leave a 'clothes peg' on the tree by leaving too much. Try to make the cut close the main stem but not so close that it damages the bark.

I always try to make a preliminary cut BELOW the final cut so when the branch does fall it doesn't tear the bark down the tree. Even better, make a rough cut well away from the main stem and after disposing of that, make the final cut accurately; you have more control that way

It may be wet, grim and grey some of these February days but with the emergence of the snowdrops, the glowing of the dogwood stems ( Cornus) and the fragrance of a number of lesser-known Loniceras (Honeysuckle family) there is plenty to enjoy.

New life is preparing to burst out and is not that far away at all..........................

January Top-tips

January top-tips

Well if you are not water-logged, or partially water-logged...you are doing very well!

Clay soils will always drain slower than chalky and sandy soils. Think of pouring water into a barrel of lentils. It will take a lot longer to get through than a barrel of marbles or tennis balls.

And so it is with soil; clay particles are very small so hold in the water ( and the nutrients for that matter) much better than chalky soils ( marbles ) or sandy soils ( tennis balls ). No offence Andy Murray.

That is why we dig in manure and compost at this time of year. It helps the STRUCTURE of the soil by encouraging larger particles to bind together and smaller ones to be broken up by the organic activity of worms and microcosms.


Have you noticed the dark almost purple colours of most trees at this time of year? I am always quite struck by the colours, especially in the cold, bluish light of evening. And it is at this time of year I wonder....will spring ever come round again? What happened to the glorious greens of last year?

So signs of life are a wonder; the blue-tits, starlings and Robins at my bird-feeder. The hippy-hair flowers emerging from Witchazels and the winter-flowering scented Viburnums ( bodnantense, fragrans, tinus), the crocus beginning to show and the out-of-place looking bright yellow Jasmine nudiflorum. The soon-to-flower Sarcococcas (winter box) are a treat for those who want to fill a room with an intense, delicate fragrance.

And as much of nature is evidently dormant - now is the time to get your bare -root plants in and to do your pruning. More on that next month.

There are however, no end of chores to keep a gardener busy; cleaning out the greenhouse ( use a solution of Jeyes fluid to get rid of moss and mold ), sorting out labels, the sticks and supports and the job no-one ever gets round to but one I always find satisfying...cleaning the tools.

What is it about men and tools? All lined up and shiny and hanging evenly on hooks......do the ladies have an equivalent activity that makes you feel you can look the world in the eye?!!!